She Magazine

Roasted beef stock; French Onion Soup

Cynthia Fueredi uses 5 pounds of meaty beef bones for her French Onion Soup. ( PHOTO BY SEAN KRAJACIC )

Soup du jour: French Onion

Published:

By Cynthia Fueredi

This issue comes to you at the start of one of the busiest times of the year. I thought you might like to have some of my holiday favorites. I struggled with ideas . appetizers, side dishes, the main event, Christmas this and New Year’s that.

In the middle of the night before my editor wanted this article it came to me SOUP. Not just any soup, but the Grande Dame of soups: French Onion Soup. A soup meal of crusty warm bread, a cheese board, green salad, and, of course, this bistro classic.

If it’s just too hectic right now to try this, save this issue and take advantage of a free afternoon or a quiet evening to prepare the roasted beef stock. You can freeze it in plastic containers and be ready to transform it into the wonder that follows. How did I learn to make this, you might be asking? Why, Julia, of course.

ROASTED BEEF STOCK

(Yields about 2 quarts)

You need to collect a variety of raw beef bones, such as the shank, neck, knuckle and leg bones. Select ones that still have some meat left on them. If the bones are too big, ask the butcher to saw them apart so they are roughly tennis-ball size.

5 pounds meaty beef bones

2 large carrots, roughly chopped

2 yellow onions, roughly chopped

2 celery ribs, roughly chopped

1 bouquet garni (1 sprig fresh thyme, 1 bay leaf, 4 parsley sprigs, 4 allspice berries and 6 black peppercorns) *see note

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon salt, plus more to season later

1. Preheat oven to 450 with a rack in the center.

2. Place your bones in a large roasting pan and roast until beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Add your chopped vegetables and continue to roast until the bones and the vegetables are very dark, about 45 more minutes. Your kitchen is going to smell so good.

3. Transfer the bones and vegetables to a large stockpot using tongs or a slotted spoon. Discard all the rendered fat in your pan. Add your bouquet garni, tomato paste and 5 to 7 quarts of cold water. You want to make sure all the bones are covered by a couple of inches.

4. Bring to a simmer; skim off and discard the gray scum that will start to collect on the surface. Add salt. Cover loosely and maintain the simmer, skimming off fat and the scum.

5. Reduce enough to just barely cover the bones, about 5 hours, or as Julia would say, “Simmer until you feel the bones have given their all.”

6. Strain the stock through a colander into a large enough bowl. Strain again, this time through a fine-meshed sieve into a clean pan or container. (I know what you’re thinking but you HAVE to do it!)

Cover and chill for several hours or overnight. Before you use the stock, remove what I call the “skating rink,” the thick layer of fat that will be on the surface. Now you’re done!

* Note — Bouquet garni (boo-KAY gahr-NEE) is a bunch of herbs, the classic trio being parsley, thyme and bay leaf, that are either tied together or wrapped in cheesecloth and used to flavor soups, stews and broths.

THE ONIONS

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

8 cups yellow Spanish onions (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar (sugar helps the onions brown)

2 tablespoons flour

2 quarts homemade beef stock (2 cups should be hot)

4 to 5 tablespoons cognac or good brandy

1 cup dry vermouth

1. Use a large saucepan over medium heat and add the butter and oil. When the butter has melted, stir in the onions, cover the pan, and cook the onions slowly until translucent, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the salt and the sugar, and raise the heat to moderately high, let the onions begin to brown, stirring frequently until they are a dark, walnut color, 25 to 30 minutes.

3. Lower heat to low and sprinkle in the flour and cook slowly, stirring for another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and let rest for a moment, then whisk in 2 cups of hot stock. When well blended, bring to a simmer and add the rest of the stock, the cognac or brandy, and the vermouth. Cover and simmer slowly for one hour. Correct your seasoning with salt and pepper.

The assembly

Slices of firm French bread sliced ½ inch thick, oven toasted

2 cups Gruyere or Swiss cheese, grated or sliced with a vegetable peeler

1. Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and set on high.

2. Place your broiler-proof soup bowls or crocks on to a baking sheet.

3. Place a toast slice to line the bottom of each bowl, and ladle the hot soup to fill to the top. Sprinkle the cheese on top, and broil until the top is brown and bubbling, about 2 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately with a small salad and extra bread.

What’s left to say except . Bon appetit!